Leith, Edinburgh's vibrant port district, has a rich history of welcoming people, goods, and innovative ideas. Nestled where the Water of Leith meets the sea, it transforms into a lively hub on sunny days, with pubs and restaurants spilling onto the Shore. I've called Leith home for over a decade, and it's been an absolute pleasure to witness its remarkable evolution. Today, Leith stands as Edinburgh's creative epicenter, buzzing with artists, musicians, designers, and startups, and boasting a thriving food and drink scene. The recent addition of the tramline from the city center in 2023 has further fueled its growth.
While the Leith depicted in Irvine Welsh's Trainspotting is a thing of the past, it would be a mistake to label it as fully gentrified. Two recent campaigns, both successful, have united the locals: one to prevent Waterstones from opening near the beloved independent bookstore Argonaut Books, and another to reinstate the benches on Kirkgate, which had been removed by the council. Leith embraces diversity, offering space for both old and new.
What keeps me rooted in Leith is the strong sense of community, akin to a village, coupled with the ever-changing energy of a city. One day, I might find myself digging at the Community Croft, and the next, immersing in art galleries, attending gigs, or indulging in fine dining. For visitors, Leith offers an authentic Edinburgh experience, free from tourist buses, tartan trinkets, and off-key bagpipes.
Leith's Culinary Delights
Leith's culinary scene spans from Michelin-starred restaurants to community cafes, traditional pubs to sleek cocktail bars. Over the past few years, a flurry of new openings has mirrored the area's creativity. Chef Barry Bryson describes Leith as "the perfect blend of old and new, with establishments that have stood the test of time and fresh energy emerging." He adds, "It's multicultural, rich, and varied, catering to a diverse community of diners." Bryson's first restaurant, Barry Fish, opened on the Shore in early 2025, and it quickly became one of my favorites. I highly recommend cozying up in the calm green interior and savoring the trout pastrami and lobster agnolotti.
Chef Roberta Hall-McCarron and her husband, Shaun McCarron, opened the cafe-bar Ardfern in 2024, adjacent to their fine-dining restaurant The Little Chartroom. I've enjoyed meals there at all hours, from leisurely brunches to birthday lunches, early evening oysters, and long dinners with friends. The hash browns are a must-have, recently topped with sprout kimchi, fish sauce aioli, and nori. Shaun shares, "Being part of a supportive, creative community is truly inspiring."
The emphasis on community is also evident at Dogstar, a new restaurant opened by chef James Murray alongside Michael Lynch and Kyle Jamieson of Nauticus bar. After years of cooking at the highest level and earning a Michelin star at Timberyard, Murray felt a growing disconnect with the fine dining world. "Choosing Leith was intentional for me; I wanted to live and work in my community. There's a sense of pride here. If it's a Leith spot cooking for Leith people, they rally behind it," he explains. I wholeheartedly support this restaurant, enjoying the view of dishes spinning in the kitchen, savoring shellfish straight from the coals, and dipping warm focaccia into anchovy sauce.
Exploring Leith's Artistic Side
To delve into Leith's artistic community, visit Custom Lane, a collaborative design space housed in the old Custom House building by the river. Here, you'll find artists' workshops, galleries, and an excellent cafe. Onsite, Bard is a gallery and shop designed to resemble a collector's home. Husbands Hugo Macdonald and James Stevens travel across Scotland, bringing contemporary Scottish design to Leith, inviting visitors to explore the integration of high-end design in a domestic setting. Whether you're an interiors enthusiast or not, it's an experience not to be missed.
Across the river, Brown's of Leith, the newest outpost of Custom Lane, has transformed a vast three-storey Victorian warehouse into a multi-use creative space designed by GRAS architects. On the ground floor, three food businesses - ShrimpWreck shellfish bar, Haze for wine and snacks, and Civerinos pizza - share a relaxed dining area, with more residents, events, and collaborations on the horizon. Architect Gunnar Groves-Raines of GRAS explains, "At Brown's, we identified a need for spaces that genuinely support and celebrate creativity." The restaurateurs share this enthusiasm. "Leith has a strong sense of identity - independent, creative, and rooted in its history," says Joseph Radford of Haze. "Our intention is to respond to that rather than overwrite it." I recommend visiting early in the evening when the atmosphere is relaxed, the music is just right, and the lights are low. You'll enjoy oysters, mussels, and tinned fish on toast, creating a fun and enjoyable experience.
Leith is home to several collaborative art spaces worth exploring, including Drill Hall, The Biscuit Factory, and Coburg House Art Studios. There's always something intriguing happening. And the future looks bright - after years of tireless volunteer fundraising and campaigning, Leith theatre has secured lottery funding to restore the beautiful 1932 art deco building to its former glory. Past pop-up events, including an Edinburgh international festival residency, have offered a thrilling preview of what's to come.
Shopping in Leith
Leith boasts some fantastic independent shops. Argonaut Books, located inside the old train station, is run by avid readers who host regular events and have a lovely cafe. For unique gifts, check out Logan Malloch, Flux, and Handsel on Leith Walk, all of which sell work by local artists. For an interesting wine selection, head to the tiny independent shop Bludge.
Don't Miss
While the Royal Yacht Britannia attracts hundreds daily, offering a glimpse into how the monarchs vacationed, I prefer the Port of Leith Distillery, an impressive "vertical distillery" where whisky production takes place across nine storeys. Tours of the stills are captivating, and the views over the Firth of Forth to Fife from the cafe and bar are unparalleled. Take a stroll along the Water of Leith path, followed by a visit to a taproom for a fresh pint. Leith's craft brewery scene is thriving, with welcoming taprooms at Moonwake, Campervan, and Newbarns.
Where to Stay
For accommodation, consider Malmaison Edinburgh, offering smart riverside rooms (from £77 room-only), or indulge in a unique experience by spending the night aboard Fingal (cabins from £269 B&B), a former lighthouse tender turned luxury hotel, permanently moored in Leith.
